Andrew’s ascent of two 8000 metre peaks in the space of just a week set new records in the field of high altitude mountaineering, all the more so given that one of the summits was a first Australian ascent. The final stages of this climb provide some of the most technical climbing on the route and Andrew’s description of this and the harrowing night time, crevasse ridden descent, are captivating, as is his openness about his summit philosophy and the tragic death of his climbing partner.