Expedition dispatches from the 8000ers

So what’s next? Well, I’d planned to stop climbing 8000ers after this expedition and I see no reason to revise that. As of now, I’m retired from the death zone.

Back in Kathmandu, enjoying the questionable delights of civilisation; horns, pollution, crowds, heat and flies. Thankfully, no giant bats.

First up, no. I turned around at 8500 metres, just a few hundred metres from the summit, due to some early but very strong signs of HACE (high altitude cerebral oedema). Symptoms – double vision, vomiting, micro sleeps (whilst climbing!), falling and hallucinations (giant bats).

Looks like a good weather window opening on 25th, 26th and 27th. i've had a wash so there's little more to do here in basecamp. heading up tomorrow. back in a week or so. ciao.

Back last night from yet another trip to the North col at 7000 metres. There wasn’t time to send a despatch before I went up (only because this *&^% internet hook-up is so unreliable). Funny how dependant you become on something you never had before…

We’ve been hearing stories of expedition’s cancelling on the south (Nepal) side of the mountain due to rock fall; a result of the very dry season. On our side however, the mountain conditions are ok. Our biggest issue is the wind.

Back in basecamp day before yesterday but only now getting communications. Thanks to all who sent best wishes and apologies for not replying – email is almost impossible to operate this year.

I’ve travelled overland from Kathmandu across the border into Tibet via Xangmu and then spent a few days in Nyalam and Tingri, hill climbing, acclimatising and doing my utmost to avoid the local food. With limited success unfortunately, as there is little else.

Kathmandu Yes, its back to Everest time. Talk about deja vu. Same city, same hotel,…

Back in Kathmandu and taking advantage of refrigerators, and restaurants that don't sell dal bhat!!…

Basecamp Back in basecamp and have to report that I was unsuccessful. What started out…

Basecamp And so its time. Sitting alone in my basecamp, I think I may be…

Basecamp again Just back to basecamp again after another quick run up to abc for…

everest basecamp north side Back in basecamp again after poor weather prevented me from reaching…

basecamp Everest north side Have been in basecamp for a few days but unable to…

The last few days have been spent sorting equipment and preparing loads for the yaks…

Arrived in Everest basecamp two days ago and have been setting up camp and getting…

Greetings, this is the first despatch from my 2011 expedition(s). Sitting in my hotel in…

Now in Kathmandu sorting, cleaning and repairing equipment before finding a flight back to Australia…

Sorry for being out of contact. Since our summit day the weather has been appalling…

Summitted the true summit of Shishapangma at 5.05pm, 2nd October, with Neil Ward. Very tough…

Back into ABC on Friday afternoon after a worthwhile acclimatisation climb to camp 2, where…

The weather continues to hold at Shisha and our fingers remain crossed for more of…

After a great puja ceremony yesterday we are itching to get onto the mountain. All…

Apologies for no contact - technology issues. (Thought i'd escaped the office but alas...) Anyway,…

Its that time again. Sitting in the Bangkok airport awaiting my connection to Kathmandu, I…

Well I'm sorry to say that I've had to cancel my Shishapangma expedition this season…

Sitting in a flash new coffee shop in Kathmandu checking my emails with free Wi-Fi…

A final message from our Makalu expedition. After a few days waiting for our porters…

08, I stood on the summit of Mt Makalu, 8470 metres, world's 5th highest mountain…

We're going for it. All weather forecasts indicate our best chance is to stick to…

We are back in basecamp after climbing to 7400 metres to place our camp 3…

Since the last despatch we've been busy and enjoying the mountain. The day after the…

We arrived in Makalu basecamp 2 days ago and were greeted with the sight of…

Finally our Russian built MI17 helicopter has delivered us to our mountain. Our scheduled flight…

Arrived in Kathmandu on Sunday and have prepared all my loads for the two expeditions…

Hello All, 2008 is upon us and the pre-monsoon climbing season approaches quickly. On 15…

Well I'm afraid there won't be a summit for me this season. The hoped for…

After returning from a night at camp 1 the day before yesterday, the latest forecast…

Well we are having to work hard to make any progress on the mountain this…

Finally the three days of continuous snowfall have eased and we can make a push…

Now in basecamp for almost a week but not much progress apart from a load…

We arrived in ABC yesterday after a series of delays. The late monsoon ensured plenty…

We've arrived in Kathmandu to find a late monsoon, sweltering temperatures and humidity like standing…

Hi All a quick note to advise that I'm heading back to Shisha in the…

Back to earth again, in both senses, as the adrenalin is starting to wear off…

We did it! We did it! We did it! We did it! We did it!…

Laptop broken, mp3 broken, down to my last book. Time to go up. And maybe…

Another day in basecamp waiting for an improvement in conditions. All night it rained here…

Daily tasks occupy us in bc as people begin to accept the loss of friends…

We are all in a very melancholy state having learnt of the deaths of two…

Back in basecamp again after a tough but reasonably successful week pushing the route out…

After 3 days resting and recovering in bc, from the climb on Shishapangma and quick…

This update comes after a crazy couple of days moving from Shishapangma to Annapurna bc…

Greetings. The attempt on Shishapangma's main summit did not go as planned. After climbing direct…

Hi again from Shishapangma ABC. Today is ANZAC day in Australia and New Zealand and…

Hi from Shishapangma basecamp on a cold and snowy Monday morning. We returned to abc…

We arrived yesterday in advance basecamp after a slow trip from Kathmandu ino Tibet, whilst…

It looks as though Shishapangma isn't going to happen this season, or at least not…

Greetings from Kathmandu. I've just returned from 3 weeks trekking and hill climbing in the…