Well we are having to work hard to make any progress on the mountain this season. Once again the weather has treated us harshly. On our intended trip to camp 1, heavy conditions obliged us to stop at depot camp en route but through the night, heavy snow and strong wind prevented any further ascent. We returned to abc yesterday afternoon, as all other expeditions also abandoned their attempts for the moment.

Tomorrow I shall again try to climb quickly to camp 1, overnight there for acclimatisation and either carry up to camp 2 the following day or return to abc and await a summit weather window.

More snow and wind are forecast in the coming days.