After returning from a night at camp 1 the day before yesterday, the latest forecast offers little hope for a summit attempt. Originally it indicated a chance on the 6th October but it now predicts 30+ knots (around 60 kph) winds above 7000 metres for the next week and 35-45 knots on the summit.

With summit temperatures around -20C (+ wind chill of 35 knots or so), my last real chance will be to head back up the hill tomorrow in the hope that the low pressure system to our north which is creating these winds, weakens, as I approach the summit on the 8th. However unless the wind speeds lessen, I shall have to accept reality and save the fingers and toes for another time.

Finger crossed for just a day’s grace.