Expedition dispatches – Andrew Lock

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Game Over

So what’s next? Well, I’d planned to stop climbing 8000ers after this expedition and I see no reason to revise that. As of now, I’m retired from the death zone.

The attempt

Back in Kathmandu, enjoying the questionable delights of civilisation; horns, pollution, crowds, heat and flies. Thankfully, no giant bats.

First up, no. I turned around at 8500 metres, just a few hundred metres from the summit, due to some early but very strong signs of HACE (high altitude cerebral oedema). Symptoms – double vision, vomiting, micro sleeps (whilst climbing!), falling and hallucinations (giant bats).

Game on

Looks like a good weather window opening on 25th, 26th and 27th. i've had a wash so there's little more to do here in basecamp. heading up tomorrow. back in a week or so. ciao.

Crowds and clouds

Back last night from yet another trip to the North col at 7000 metres. There wasn’t time to send a despatch before I went up (only because this *&^% internet hook-up is so unreliable). Funny how dependant you become on something you never had before…

cheers , Comrade andrew lock everest keynote speaker australia

Waiting game

We’ve been hearing stories of expedition’s cancelling on the south (Nepal) side of the mountain due to rock fall; a result of the very dry season. On our side however, the mountain conditions are ok. Our biggest issue is the wind.

Windy

Back in basecamp day before yesterday but only now getting communications. Thanks to all who sent best wishes and apologies for not replying – email is almost impossible to operate this year.

Basecamp

I’ve travelled overland from Kathmandu across the border into Tibet via Xangmu and then spent a few days in Nyalam and Tingri, hill climbing, acclimatising and doing my utmost to avoid the local food. With limited success unfortunately, as there is little else.

Once more unto the breach…

Kathmandu Yes, its back to Everest time. Talk about deja vu. Same city, same hotel, same mountain, same objective. I'd better finish it this time or I'll run out of things to say. For the uninitiated, the plan is Everest…

All over

Back in Kathmandu and taking advantage of refrigerators, and restaurants that don't sell dal bhat!! Had to put the idea of another summit attempt on ice too, as the winds didn't abate sufficiently for my liking. That's ok; at this…